Quintana Roo


January 20, 2020

After our expensive stay in Tulum, we were ready to explore a place with more of a laid-back, bohemian feeling. We found everything we hoped for in the lazy days at Isla Holbox (pronounced Holbosh). We loved this relaxed island and it is now our favorite escape for when San Miguel de Allende goes through its chilly winter. The hype is well worth it. We were thrilled exploring and hanging out, and the vibe was right up our alley. I could easily spend a month here. Five days in December were all we got this time.

The island is long with a large portion of it restricted reserve. To get bearings, the town crosses the island on the western end and most of the happening spots are on the northern side away from the ferry terminal.

We took an ADO bus from Tulum to Chiquila (where you catch the ferry) which took three and a half hours. You can also get to Chiquila/Holbox from Cancun town, Playa del Carmen and Merida.

A private shuttle from Cancun’s airport is also a possibility, expensive, and must be reserved in advance. And if you have masses of money, private planes start at close to $500 dollars and depart from Tulum, Playa, Cancun, Merida, and Cozumel.

There are two ferry companies (red and blue) which charge the same amount for the crossing. The red ferry company should be faster, but we didn’t notice an enormous difference. The terminal is just down the road from the bus station so it makes it very easy to take a bus here. One ferry leaves on the hour and the other on the half-hour. There is a discount for citizens and residents with an INAPAM (over 60) card.

There are only a few ATM’s on Holbox and from what we heard they are unpredictable, so plan. It is possible to pay by credit card in some places, but the wi-fi is not always working so you may find that the peso reigns supreme for most purchases, bring plenty of them.

Not only is this a beautiful island, but it is a mass of color hitting your senses with all the fabulous murals throughout the town. And a little foodie paradise to round it all out.

Get around in golf carts, bike, or on foot. Bikes can be rented throughout the town and a pleasant ride is an enjoyable way to cruise around the island. Be careful since the roads are sand or dirt and there are potholes that may get in the way. It gets hot here so bring plenty of water, a sun hat, and bio sunscreen with you as you explore.

With a wide range of accommodation including two very cool hostels for those travelers on a budget, some great Airbnb’s, and many lovely boutique hotels there is something for everyone. For our stay, we chose a small hotel just two blocks off the beach on the northwest side of the island.

Please consider using our affiliate link for Hotel Para Ti it has a lovely staff, a fun pool area with bar service, and charming rooms with balconies. It being quiet at night. They also have coffee in the morning accompanied by muffins to get you started on the day. It was a perfect place for us. Please note that this hotel is for adults only. And if you stay at Para Ti or any other hotel on the island, please consider using our affiliate link on Booking.com at no extra cost to you, but it helps us keep our blog going.

Right down the road from Para Ti, towards the beach, is a brilliant breakfast spot Le Jardin Panderia/Cafeteria where they make their own bakery goods. Don’t plan on visiting on a Monday or Tuesday as they are closed. It gets full on the days they are open and the service is slow, but we went several times and enjoyed it. Stop by the world map and put a pin to show where you are from.

Other breakfast spots worth trying were El Cafecito. Try their Cafe de la Olla!! Papalotes is also very nice with amazing French Toast! Since we were only there 5 nights, we didn’t have time to check out all the ones we wanted.

For lunch or dinner, Viva Zapata is a great spot. We even got one of their t-shirts. Big Fish is a tiny space but has good ceviche if you can get a seat. The Holbox Foodie Market has super spicy chicken wings, and to cool your mouth down El Manglo Blanco has the absolute best gelato at its two locations. Luuma is a beautiful setting with great food, although pricey. And their sister restaurant is the Mandarina Seaside Restaurant by Casa Las Tortugas, right on the beach where we had a romantic meal on our last night.

There is also a selection of street food of which Marquesitas is one of them. They smell great and are sugary crepes rolled up with fillings of Dulce de leche, Nutella, and cheese. They are a gained taste for me as I just can’t get used to the cheese and Nutella combo. But they are available all over the Yucatan and are cheap.

Isla Holbox has a plethora of food choices and you would need a full month to check them all out. Many are not listed on Trip Advisor or Yelp so just go out, look at the menus, see how busy they are, and then settle down to enjoy what this beach escape offers.

When you aren’t eating there are many ways to enjoy the island and its surrounding area. A simple laze on the beach, perhaps on one of the many water hammocks, is always an enjoyable way to spend time but don’t miss a relaxing walk along the long white sandbar where there are only a few other people.

Just be aware of when high tide comes in as you may get wet. But then, this is an island with water! So, do you care?

And the water!!! It is a gorgeous mixture of the blue spectrum, clear as a bell, warm and shallow for a way out, allowing a marvelous saunter down the beach.

And you must take time to witness the beautiful sunsets!!

Feel like a bit of Yoga? There are quite a few spots offering classes in a variety of prices. And there are the requisite massage tables on the beach. Feel like a bit of Yoga? There are quite a few spots offering classes in a variety of prices. And of course, there are the requisite massage tables on the beach.

We also spent a wonderful three hours on a boat excursion that hit a beautiful jungle cenote and Isla Pajaros (bird island) with a few flamingoes, a lot of pelicans, and an assortment of other birds making a cacophony of sounds. Although we spent a fair bit of time there, we could have stayed longer just watching the display of wildlife, perhaps with a cold beer or two. Our last stop was to see a larger number of flamingoes which we loved as we think they are graceful birds and we know we are not home when seeing them.

We arranged our boat with Hotel Para Ti but it is easy to just wander along the beach and check out the tour operators to find your own and negotiate a price. There are tours in the morning and afternoon and we opted for the morning before it got blistering hot and were glad we did. 

As for nightlife, we settled down on a stool at The Hot Corner where food and drink are served accompanied by very fun tunes. We loved it since there are open walls in the front and locals would sit on the curb across the street and have their snacks and drinks. It made for a fantastic night.

We also hit the upstairs bar at the Tribu Hostel where there is music in the evening and you can dance away the night. They have a sandwich board out front to tell you who is playing.

Isla Holbox is on just about everybody’s radar but we still found it throwing out that cool backpacker, free-spirit vibe that we were longing for. We saw people of every age range here, which was a pleasant change from Tulum. It was to us very low-key but also allowing you to choose the budget you are comfortable with. Splurges are possible, but not the only choice available.

I even lived in my one pair of shorts and flip-flops for most of the time we were here. Casual attire is the norm.

We kind of hate to make such a glowing review and entice more people to come, but we are also not people who feel we must be the only privileged ones allowed. If you go, take care of the island by being responsible, eco-travelers and have a brilliant time!! And then shoot us a comment and let us hear about how you enjoyed this magical island.

Isla Holbox is known for Whale Shark watching and Turtles, and the best time to visit is during the months of June to September for the Whale Sharks and the Turtles in summer months. I guess we will just have to return!!!

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  • Reply Chris stone January 22, 2020 at 5:30 pm

    Looks lake an amazing place!

    • Reply ourprimeoflife January 23, 2020 at 1:48 pm

      This is really beautiful and so chilled out. Highly recommend a visit.

  • Reply David Owens January 21, 2020 at 3:25 pm

    Let’s do Holbox for a month one winter Ria & Glenn!

    David O

    • Reply ourprimeoflife January 23, 2020 at 1:49 pm

      Sounds good to us. We will be back in Mexico winter of 2021 after our 7 month se asia trip. Might be a perfect time to head down to Holbox. Some nice AirBnb’s

    • Reply ourprimeoflife January 29, 2020 at 3:20 pm

      We have unfortunately had to change our SE Asia plans (postponed till same time next year) so are now doing 5-6 months throughout Mexico, Cuba and Guatemala. Maybe throwing Cartagena in there too. Will let you know itinerary and when we will be coming through Holbox. Can’t wait to get back.

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